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Photo: Anthony Mair
Photo: Anthony Mair

New and Notable: Broccoli Bar, I’m Eddie Cano, Osteria Costa, Philly Wing Fry and More

On Tap keeps locals in the know about the hottest new food and drink spots around town and the top culinary happenings of the month.
Read on to get the inside scoop on what’s new and notable in the DC area.

NEW

Broccoli Bar
Open: October 24
Location: Shaw
Lowdown: Two popular DC brands have teamed up to open a bar that’s as much about food and drink as it is about conversation and collaboration. &pizza and Broccoli City are behind the new Broccoli Bar. Of course, the menu is curated by &pizza with familiar favorites as well as an exclusive new pizza, Mad Cheddar, which is a riff on broccoli cheddar soup with cheddar, mozzarella, broccoli, cheddar beer sauce, pickled red onions and croutons. The special brunch menu includes an avocado toast pizza and breakfast pies like Cinnamon Toast with sweet ricotta, cinnamon sugar, banana, agave, cereal crunch and mint. The bar offers cocktails, beer and wine. The space will also host regular free events like Broccoli Talks and monthly community volunteer days. Broccoli Talks are the venue’s version of TED Talks, providing a platform for leaders in the community to discuss social entrepreneurship, education, technology and creativity. 1817 7th St. NW, DC; www.broccoli.bar

I’m Eddie Cano
Open: September 28
Location: Chevy Chase
Lowdown: When you say the name quickly, you’ll realize it’s a riff on the way an Italian speaker would pronounce the word Americano. That’s pretty much the restaurant in a nutshell: an Italian-American neighborhood joint with a playful side. The dual identity reflects the heritage of the owners, industry veterans Massimo Papetti of Cafe Milano and James Gee of ThinkFoodGroup. The menu is split in the same fashion with Americano dishes like garlic bread, fried provolone, spaghetti and meatballs, fettuccine alfredo, and chicken parm. The Italiano side of the menu is a bit more traditional with standbys like bruschetta, burrata, gnocchi, bucatini all’Amatriciana and tagliata. Standouts across the board include thin and crispy fried zucchini, grilled octopus with chickpeas, and spaghetti with baby clams. The pastas are all made from scratch and cooked al dente. Wines hail from Italy and the cocktail selection highlights aperitifs and digestifs. The décor – a long communal table, a mural of Italian icons and displays of clear bottles on copper rods – lends itself to a boisterous meal with the family or a romantic date night. 5014 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; www.imeddiecano.com

Osteria Costa
Open: October 24
Location: National Harbor
Lowdown: MGM National Harbor has officially filled the restaurant space formerly occupied by Marcus in the conservatory of the resort. Osteria Costa is a coastal Italian spot that originally debuted at The Mirage in Las Vegas. The menu pulls flavors and traditions from the Amalfi Coast and the Campania region. A selection of antipasti like fritto misto, beef carpaccio and caprese crostini precede Neapolitan pizzas, fresh house-made pastas, grilled seafood and trattoria plates. Mozzarella is made from scratch daily, and a garden on the restaurant’s indoor terrace provides herbs for various dishes. Classic desserts like tiramisu and gelato round out the offerings. The space has various Italian backdrops, from the bright yellow accent wall with scenic photography to the peninsula bar and the pizza counter with views of the kitchen. 101 MGM National Ave. Oxon Hill, MD; www.mgmnationalharbor.com/en/restaurants/osteria-costa.html

Philly Wing Fry
Open: October 18
Location: Navy Yard
Lowdown: Philly cheesesteaks, chicken wings and waffle fries. The combination is a curious one, but for Chef Kwame Onwuachi, it’s simple: these are three of his favorite things in one meal. After opening Kith and Kin to critical acclaim, Onwuachi decided to revisit his fast-casual concept, which he tested as a pop-up in Union Market two years ago. He made a permanent home for Philly Wing Fry in the new South Capitol Hill Whole Foods via the market’s program that partners with local chefs. The menu is succinct with sandwiches, confit chicken wings, waffle fries and combo options. The Philly cheesesteak is the crown jewel, made with dry-aged Roseda Farm beef, smoked provolone, roasted garlic mayo, pickled pearl onions and caramelized onions, packed in a beef-fat toasted bun. It evokes feelings of nostalgia for Onwuachi, who grew up eating cheesesteaks in the Bronx. This version is his childhood favorite the way he prefers to eat it today, with locally-sourced, additive-free ingredients that meet Whole Foods’ standards. For vegetarians, he’s reimagined the Philly with crispy mushrooms, spicy mushroom spread, herbed lebne, smoked provolone and pickled Fresno chili. The sides borrow flavors from Afro-Caribbean cuisine like tamarind glazed chicken wings with crispy garlic and waffle fries dusted with Ethiopian berbere spice. If you want to eat Onwuachi-style, go for  “The Meal” with all three plus a choice of fresh juice. Whole Foods Market, 101 H St. SE, DC; www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/southcapitolhill

NOTABLE

Pendleton Carryout Co.
Location: Old Town Alexandria
Lowdown: Incubators are pretty much the hottest thing in the food industry right now. A new one has hatched in Old Town Alexandria from the locals behind the forthcoming Madison Collective, The Peoples Drug and the former Tortilladora. It’s called Pendleton Carryout Co., also known as PCOC or “peacock.” That explains the avian logo and the colorful ornithological wallpaper in the bright, standing-room-only space. The goal is to serve as a test market for restaurants and brands looking to expand into Virginia. There will eventually be five rotating concepts in the building: three savory, one breakfast and one sweet. As the name suggests, the food is available for carryout and delivery. The two concepts currently anchoring Pendleton are Sliced and Laoban Dumplings. Sliced is from Chef Ed McIntosh and offers Roman-style pizza by the ounce (a slice is 8 ounces and a full pie is 32 ounces). The pies range from classic cheese and pepperoni to unique combos like burrata and ricotta cheeses atop chimichurri. Laoban has been roaming around the DC area for a couple of years and their menu at Pendleton features a selection of their signature dumplings like Thai chicken, pork and chive, and farmer’s fancy, served with fiery godmother and so so sesame sauces. 807 Pendleton St. Alexandria, VA; www.pendletoncarryoutco.com

Sushería
Location: Georgetown
Lowdown: What used to be Maté near the waterfront in Georgetown is now Sushería, a Peruvian and Japanese restaurant from owner Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld. The blend of these two cuisines is known as Nikkei, a culinary byproduct of the Japanese diaspora that landed Japanese immigrants amongst the flavors and ingredients of Peru. Fraga-Rosenfeld and Sushería’s consulting chef, Javier Angeles-Beron, embrace the concept and add their own flair with unusual sushi rolls that envelop Peruvian ingredients like lomo saltado and pollo a la brasa. The Lomo Saltado roll has strip loin steak, cream cheese, sautéed onions and potato strings, while the Pollo a la Brasa roll is made with beer-marinated chicken breast, avocado, aji amarillo sauce and potato strings. There are also more conventional maki, as well as sashimi, bright ceviches and Japanese rice bowls with Latin flavors. The bar emphasizes sake, available in shareable pitchers. Before reopening as Sushería, Fraga-Rosenfeld elevated the floor of the restaurant to provide street-level views and added modern design touches like crystal chandeliers. His vision for the space is an inviting, all-day lounge where visitors can linger with their laptops over lunch or have an elegant dinner. 3101 K St. NW, DC; www.susheriadc.com

Photo: Greg Powers
Photo: Greg Powers

New and Notable: August 2018

On Tap keeps locals in the know about the hottest new food and drink spots around town and the top culinary happenings of the month. Read on to get the inside scoop on what’s new and notable in the DC area.

NEW

Gravitas
Open: July 3
Location: Ivy City
Lowdown: Matt Baker’s sophisticated tasting menu restaurant has literally been years in the making. The chef has taken the former Pappas Tomato Factory and transformed it into an urban oasis where minimalist fixtures, mossy accents and hanging terrariums are juxtaposed with original 1940s brick, windows and steel beams. This antique character is what drew him to Ivy City in the first place, along with the opportunity to help weave the fabric of a burgeoning community. Gravitas is the first tasting menu restaurant to hit the neighborhood, with a selection of 15 dishes – half of which are vegetarian – that can be mixed and matched to create a custom tasting of four, five, six or seven courses. Baker says he wanted a restaurant that allowed him to dream up and serve manicured, experimental dishes. That’s evident in courses like a gruyère agnolotti decorated with a fried ash chip reminiscent of webbed sea coral. Baker focuses as much on sourcing as he does on experimenting, pulling ingredients almost exclusively from the Mid-Atlantic region. In the coming weeks, he will debut a rooftop bar and garden supplying produce like tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini and more. The bar program features spirits and brews from the restaurant’s Ivy City neighbors, used in drinks that incorporate seasonal vegetables. The wine list is comprised of mostly food-friendly options to facilitate pairings with a wide spectrum of flavors. 1401 Okie St. NE, DC; www.gravitasdc.com

La Vie
Open: July 12
Location: District Wharf
Lowdown: Social Restaurant Group is expanding their portfolio, which already includes Provision No. 14 and Pamplona, among others, to include a posh waterfront restaurant, bar and event space. The vast fifth floor venue boasts panoramic views of the river through floor-to-ceiling windows in the main dining room, and has three more spaces, each with a distinct vibe. The Conservatory bar and lounge is covered in climbing greenery and matching plush upholstery. The Chandelier Room is, expectedly, adorned with a display of 15 of the hanging fixtures. Finally, the Ledge is a sprawling waterfront terrace. The menu nods to the riverfront location with coastal fare like seafood towers, spreads, house-made pastas, mussel pots, whole branzino, and mainland fare like steak frites and a decadent burger. Drinks follow suit with spritzes, shareable cocktails and plenty of bubbly. 88 District Sq. SW, DC; www.laviedc.com

Poca Madre
Open: June 19
Location: Chinatown
Lowdown: To say Poca Madre is Victor Albisu’s passion project would be an understatement. After closing his South American grill, Del Campo, Albisu and his team poured their hearts and souls into its replacement. Poca Madre is a sincere homage to Mexico, celebrating the country’s history, culture, agriculture and cuisine. The menu is, simply put, an exploration of contemporary Mexican dining. But every aspect, from the sourcing to the recipes, tells a deeper story. Dishes include flashes of influence from the various periods of colonization by Europeans and the far-reaching trade routes that brought Southeast Asian spices and herbs to the country. Many ingredients are imported from Mexico to support local farmers including sea salt, grasshoppers, cocoa nibs and dry maíz that is cooked, soaked, scrubbed and ground to form tortillas, which are cooked to order. The resulting product is unlike any tortilla I’ve had before: deeply flavored, crispy yet soft and enticingly aromatic. The small plates and entrées put creative twists on traditions, like a corn risotto that conjures the flavors of elote and a shrimp and cuttlefish ceviche with flat noodles made from the two types of seafood. Drinks rely heavily on the spirit made from the plant featured in Poca Madre’s logo and décor, with a liquid nitrogen-frozen margarita and a take on a Mai Tai that uses mezcal and cantaloupe seed orgeat. The space is accented by suspended greenery, a mirror carried over from Del Campo’s bar and a striking piece of artwork that clearly communicates the team’s view on immigration: a depiction of a freestanding open door on the U.S.-Mexico border modeled after a real-life installation from 1988. 777 I St. NW, DC; www.pocamadredc.com

San Lorenzo
Open: June 25
Location: Shaw
Lowdown: Chef Massimo Fabbri, known and loved for his cooking at Tosca and Posto, opened his own restaurant in Shaw in honor of his family and the cuisine of his home in Tuscany. The spot is named for Fabbri’s favorite neighborhood in Florence, and his son, who is named after the patron saint of cooks. The menu is succinct and simple, with classic Tuscan recipes and a few salutes to his time at Tosca. Start with antipasti like tuna carpaccio, panzanella or fried squash blossoms, and be sure to sample the fresh pastas. My favorite was the tortelli stuffed with robiola and black truffle complemented by a porcini mushroom sauce. Entrées range from sautéed scallops to a grilled T-bone steak for two. To finish, there’s a selection of traditional desserts like panna cotta and fruit crostata. The bar serves both signature cocktails and unaltered Italian favorites, as well as beer and wine. Though the space is narrow, the surrounds are cozy and inviting, with Art Deco Murano glass pendants, brick peeking through distressed plaster and Florentine-inspired patterned tiles. 1316 9th St. NW, DC; www.sanlorenzodc.com

NOTABLE

Test Kitchen Tuesdays
Date: Tuesdays during the summer
Location: The Oval Room
Lowdown: For Chef Bryan Moscatello at The Oval Room, the new Test Kitchen Tuesday series is the perfect outlet for culinary creativity. Each Tuesday, he creates a three-course menu that showcases unusual ingredients, cutting-edge techniques and out-of-the box dishes, all within a chosen theme. Previous Test Kitchen menus have covered ideas like “Memories of a Jersey Shore Clam Bake,” “The Parents Are Away So It’s Breakfast for Dinner,” and “Who Cooked Roger Rabbit,” with dishes ranging from a lobster burger to a take on steak and eggs with beef tongue and a quail egg. The menu is available at the bar or on the patio every Tuesday for $45 per person. There is also an optional $25 drink pairing. 800 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; www.ovalroom.com

Wandering Oasis
Date: Now through fall
Location: Various locations around DC
Lowdown: DC’s Mixtress, Gina Chersevani, has taken her show on the road. She recently debuted Wandering Oasis, a 27-foot traveling cocktail truck, at various locations around the District. The truck is covered with giant banana leaves and tropical birds and supplies drinkers with frozen and draft cocktails like a hibiscus lemon daiquiri, citrus sour margarita, grapefruit crush and bourbon mint tea. Every drink on the menu is 16 ounces and costs about $9. The menu of drinks will rotate each weekend. The truck’s planned stops are TBD, but it will definitely make a few cameos at Nats Park over the next few months. Follow Chersevani and her cocktail truck’s DC stops on Twitter at @MIXTRESSdc.

Photo: Courtesy of O-Ku
Photo: Courtesy of O-Ku

New & Notable: Mikko, Pappe and More

On Tap keeps locals in the know about the hottest new food and drink spots around town and the top culinary happenings of the month. Read on to get the inside scoop on what’s new and notable in the DC area.

NEW

Mikko
Open: May 1
Location: Dupont Circle
Lowdown: The former chef to the Finnish ambassador just opened his own café serving the food of his homeland. Mikko Kosonen got his start at his family’s restaurant Stockholm and attended culinary school in Helsinki. In the U.S., he’s been cooking for diplomats, heads of state and royalty, but now he’s expanding his audience to include average Washingtonians. Nordic cuisine relies on simple preparations of ingredients like seafood, rye, mushrooms, berries and roots. The menu at Mikko is succinct but true to form, with specialties like house-smoked salmon, Danish-style open-faced sandwiches, Finnish soups and Nordic pastries. The café space is cozy, with dishes on display in a cold case at the entrance, a few seats at a counter facing the kitchen in the back and a street-side patio with additional seating, where I enjoyed a Karelian rice and egg pie alongside a gravlax sandwich. There’s also a small market offering a selection of Nordic cookies, chocolates, breads, jams and sauces. A note if you go: the operation is cashless. 1636 R St. NW, DC; www.chefmikko.com

O-Ku
Open: June 22
Location: Union Market
Lowdown: O-Ku, a Japanese restaurant with roots in Charleston and sister restaurants throughout the South, expanded to the Union Market neighborhood this summer. Each of the locations has its own executive chef with a distinct menu and the DC kitchen is helmed by Chef Bryan Emperor, who has studied Japanese cuisine for more than 25 years. His menu features traditional sushi and sashimi as well as modern interpretations of Japanese specialties and wood-fired, robata-style dishes from a binchotan grill. Highlights include puffed rice-crusted Japanese sea bass and an out-of-this-world king crab California roll. The industrial and minimalist two-story space has ample seating in the bar room and wood-accented sushi room, a plush Japanese whiskey lounge, and a roof deck with views of Union Market. 1274 5th St. NE, DC; www.okusushidc.com

Pappe
Open: June 4
Location: 14th Street
Lowdown: Vipul Kapila never ordered lamb vindaloo in Indian restaurants in the DC area because he couldn’t find a version that lived up to the fiery dish he remembers eating growing up in Delhi. That is, until he tried a truly authentic rendition at a restaurant in Falls Church. One bite, and he was hooked – so much so that he decided to team up with the chefs behind the dish, Sanjay Mandhaiya and Shankar Puthran, to open Pappe and finally bring a neighborhood Indian restaurant to 14th Street. That vindaloo is a star curry on the menu and I can attest, it is fiery. The menu also features three dishes that Mandhaiya learned while staging in India: butter chicken, chana pindi and taar gosht. Other popular items include vegetable samosas, prawn koliwada, junglee laal maas, fish chittnad and fire-grilled baingan bartha. The drink list draws on Indian spices like cardamom, tamarind and curry leaves for cocktails, sodas, teas and of course, mango lassis. The space is inspired by a New Delhi fabric market, with silk textiles draped over the tables, lanterns made from fabric-dyeing baskets and murals similar to those found painted on homes in Indian villages. The mural artist, John DeNapoli, is also behind the renditions of traditional Indian scenes that have been infiltrated with modern touches, such as a family in DC sports gear and an elephant marked with Uber and Lyft logos. The restaurant’s name means brother and Kapila said he wanted it to feel casual and welcoming while also capturing the bold, complex and exciting personality of his native country. 1317 14th St. NW, DC; www.pappedc.com

Tacos, Tortas & Tequila and Buena Vida
Open: May 4
Location: Silver Spring
Lowdown: Serbian restaurateur Ivan Iricanin, who popularized Balkan food in DC with Ambar and BABA, is steering his restaurant group south of the border with two new Mexican concepts in one building in Silver Spring. Both have a unique personality, but the common thread is house-made tortilla products and local, organic ingredients. Located on the ground floor, Tacos, Tortas & Tequila (TTT) is a casual taco joint that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu spotlights traditional tacos, tortas and tequila in addition to tostadas, quesadillas, taquitos, desserts, milkshakes, agua frescas, and Mexican sodas and beers. For breakfast, there are plenty of egg dishes and coffee drinks. On the second story, Buena Vida is a more upscale restaurant that offers an all-you-can-eat small plates deal for $19.99 during lunch and $35 during dinner. The dishes are more contemporary, like a mezcal-cured salmon tostada, a skate wing chicharron and fingerling sweet potato tostones. And Northern Virginia residents, fear not. Iricanin will be opening a second location of TTT and Buena Vida this fall in Clarendon opposite his Balkan spots. 8407 Ramsey Ave. Silver Spring, MD; www.tttrestaurant.com

NOTABLE

Butterfly Tacos y Tortas
Date: May 2
Location: Penn Quarter
Lowdown: José Andrés’ restaurant group, ThinkFoodGroup, has a spot in Penn Quarter dedicated to testing out new fast-casual concepts temporarily and gathering feedback from customers before officially debuting the restaurant. This R&D space is called ThinkFoodLab, and the latest occupant is Butterfly Tacos y Tortas. Think of it like the casual little sister of Oyamel, with a menu inspired by Mexico City’s street food. As the name implies, the two staple dishes are tacos and tortas. Don’t miss standouts like the taco filled with shredded beef in a smoky chile sauce and the torta stuffed with seared pork belly, guacamole, salsa, black beans and lime. There’s also a selection of salads, snacks, desserts and agua frescas, including fried potatoes with mole poblano and strawberry-lime-chile paletas. Fans of the concept will also be able to find the Mexican fare at a second location at D.C. United’s new Audi Field. 701 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, DC; www.thinkfoodlab.com

Hill Country’s Backyard Barbecue
Date: May 16
Location: National Building Museum’s west lawn
Lowdown: Hill Country Barbecue Market has once again taken over the National Building Museum’s west lawn for the annual Backyard Barbecue pop-up. It’s all part of the museum’s Summer Block Party, which centers on an interactive exhibit called “Fun House.” On the lawn in the afternoons and evenings (Wednesday through Sunday), the restaurant serves up sliced brisket, pulled pork sandwiches, Texas cheesesteaks and smoked hot link sandwiches, along with cocktails, wine and beer. On Fridays and Saturdays, there’s also live music. The pop-up runs through September 3. 401 F St. NW, DC; www.hillcountry.com/dc